When deciding on an aftermarket steering wheel for my '95 Corvette ZR-1, I found conflicting information about the MOMO adapter that should be used for the car. Some sources state that the 2702 should be used (with some modifications), and some claim that the 2401 is correct. Although most GM steering columns use the same splined shaft, there are apparently some differences between the telescoping and tilt columns that must be accounted for in the design of the MOMO adapter. The 2702 might be more appropriate for some Cadillac models, but the 2401 is almost a perfect fit for the late C4 Corvette.
|Total height||2 13/16"||4 1/8"|
|Diameter at base||4"||4 9/16"|
The steering wheel on the '95 Corvette has a hole to provide clearance for the wiring on the air bag clockspring. The MOMO 2401 adapter does not have such a hole, which means that the clockspring must be removed entirely. (It only provides a connection for the air bag on this car, so no other function will be lost.) If the connector at the other end of the clockspring (underneath the dashboard) is cut off, the lead can then be pulled up through the steering column and the clockspring removed from the car.
The only other modification that I found to be necessary was removing the bulk of four small strengthening ribs in the plastic steering column shroud. These ribs are found inside the top of the shroud, and you can either grind them down with a rotary tool or cut them off with a sharp chisel. This will allow the skirt at the base of the 2401 adapter to rotate freely without rubbing on the inside of the shroud.
Finally, the switch to a MOMO wheel meant the removal of the air bag, which caused the air bag system to illuminate its fault lamp. This can be remedied by fitting a 2Ω resistor across the air bag connector in the harness. If, for some reason, you want the resistor to survive airbag-detonating current, you'll probably need a power resistor in the multi-watt range (although I wasn't able to find a spec on this.) Otherwise, it's perfectly reasonable to fit a common 1/8W or 1/4W. If you've removed the clockspring from the car as described above, there will then be a loose two-contact yellow connector under the dashboard, near the base of the column. The cleanest solution uses a mating connector, to which you wire the resistor - this allows you to leave all of the harness wiring intact. The mating connector that you'll need (which is the same as the connector at the base of the clockspring) is an ACDelco part, no. PT1159. If you want to measure the impedence through this part once you've soldered in your resistor, note that the connector produces an internal short when it's disconnected.